Hand Drill
Posted on Wednesday, August 6th, 2008 at 3:02 amCan anyone help me figure out how to get the bottom part of the hand drill method for making fire?
a few days ago i decided to learn to make fire the old natural way and i want to know how to get the tool to make them from scratch for example what part of the tree should i get and how to cut it . so far i know how to get the first tool to make fire the drill which was easy duh. the problem i have is what part of the tree i need for the bottom and how too cut it so i can drill and get the ember.
Ter chingry wah gi bef wone oe lood evoe.
Yeah, makes as much sense as some of the methods I've seen for the bow drill method of firelighting.
For the drill you need a hard wooden stick around 1/4" wide, six inches long, and rounded at the end.
At the top of the drill you have a pressure pad which is a block of wood with a positioning hole for the drill. Shape the top of the drill to get a smooth rotation of the drill in the positioning hole. A bit of grease from cooking the last pheasant or partridge makes the turning easier or stuff a bit of bacon fat into the hole, twist the drill around to grease the hole and use the fat on the fire.
For the anvil you need a softer wood that loses material as it gets chafed by the hard drill.
Both the drill and the anvil must be completely dry.
In the anvil, make a series of holes all the way through, slightly smaller in diameter than the drill. Or take a drilled block of pine or some other soft wood and find a stick for the drill a bit larger in diameter than the holes.
Connect each hole to the edge of the anvil with a slot around half the width of the hole and widening toward the edge of the anvil, so it looks like a keyhole.
That lets air in which is a vital requirement of the process to get an easy time of it.
To be really clever with it, countersink the bases of the holes with a countersink bit or use a round-ended tool so the bottoms of the holes are widened out.
When the ash falls through it will not then be in contact with the wood so it retains it's heat better and it gets more air around it so it stays smoking better too....see later.
Make the bow from a flexible stick and some twine or cord, or a length of vine if you can find a flexible but strong one. A long bow is better than a short one. One to two feet long is OK. It must be strong enough to turn the drill while pressure is applied, without any slippage.
Place the anvil over a small sheet of wood or card (not metal which conducts heat away) on a firm level surface. Use the knees or a foot to keep the anvil in place without it turning whilst drilling, or wedge it between some rocks or heavy logs.
Drill into one hole using hard pressure on the top of the drill pressure plate and fast movements of the bow to provide sufficient frictional heat to burn the edges of the hole.
The burnt material should fall off as a smoking hot black powder and collect on the sheet of wood or card under the hole. Air from the slot keeps it burning. Without a slot you're on a losing wicket.
When a sufficiently large pile of smoking black powder is collected, remove the anvil, hold some fine dry tinder onto the smoking powder and blow gently until the tinder is ignited.
Place the tinder into a gap in the sticks of a fire already built up and ready to be lit.
Four minutes is a good time for a beginner from starting the process to lighting the fire.
Retain the block and drill in a dry place, using up the holes as they become worn and too large for the drill
Then prepare another drill to fit the widened holes.
That's around twenty fires later for a ten-hole anvil.
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